With this paddle, I thee wed
Nikki Rekman
Published in Coast & Kayak Magazine Spring 2011
This isn’t every girl’s dream honeymoon. But could it start a trend?
A paddling honeymoon – I certainly did not have dreams of this as a
little girl, I can assure you, but then again there are a few of those
dreams that thankfully were never fulfilled.
When Mark and I finally decided we were going to take the plunge
into matrimony I figured there would be nothing traditional about our
wedding. Heck, I was just thankful we were finally getting to this
point. But to my delight and surprise this is the story of a paddling
adventure that exceeded a little girl’s expectations.
On Oct. 9. 2010 Mark and I were married. It was everything I had
hoped for and much more – not a huge affair but one that was
representative of who Mark and I are, shared of course with the
important people in our lives. But Mark had his own idea of how to
celebrate our life-long commitment – a paddle down the Grand Canyon for
our honeymoon.
Here is where the adventure begins. On October 11 we left our home
near Vancouver, BC, and headed south to Flagstaff, Arizona, where we
were to meet up with the crew from Canyon Explorations/Expeditions for a
15-day paddle down the Colorado. Also on the trip was our friend Lynne
from Western Canoeing and Kayaking in Abbotsford, BC. So there we were,
the three of us, at the put-in at Lee’s Ferry on the north shore of the
Colorado. There was definitely the excitement of exploring a new river.
And not just any river, but one that winds its way through the bottom of
one of the most remarkable geological features on the planet: the Grand
Canyon.
Over the course of the first few days it was amazing to me how we
lost our inhibitions with the total strangers we had only just met and
ultimately became our own little river tribe. Picture the girls going
upstream to pee and the boys going downstream – on the Colorado to
adequately handle the number of people that visit each year you pee in
the river and haul everything else out in sealed ammo boxes (also
referred to as “the “groover” for the grooves left in your behind from
the boxes before some river guide genius thought of using a toilet
seat).
I wasn’t sure at first how it would be unwinding all the craziness of the wedding and end-of-season work for me (I’m a sales representative in the paddling industry). It was work – the paddling, the river life, all the people and the weather – but the 225 miles were some of the most amazing paddling days I have ever experienced.
I had never been on the water for that many consecutive days and had
certainly never planned a trip where you had to take down camp every
morning and set it all up again later in the day. However, you get into a
routine and it is very much a part of your experience of being on the
river. Finding just the right spot to quickly set up your tent for the
night (remember we were paddling in October, so the days were shorter)
became something to look forward to – a type of nesting, really. Ah, I
love it.
Evenings were spent cooking, visiting with fellow paddlers,
debriefing the day and planning the next. Did I say there was some work
involved? I love the river life. Crawling into the tent, feeling certain
that your sleeping mat was four inches thick and not 1.5 inches because
you could feel the relaxation in every muscle in your body as you lay
down.
The river is most certainly a good analogy for married life. It
winds and meanders and with its mighty flow makes many of the rough
spots smooth – over time. Mark is my best friend and our most
significant meeting place is the out of doors and particularly paddling.
Some might think a paddling honeymoon could be the beginning of the end
(we heard from one guide a story of a couple that decided to get
divorced on a trip at about the half-way point). Mark and I fared much
better. We work stuff out better on the river than we do at home. I
think this is mostly because things are simplified on the water. You
need to make so many miles, eat, sleep and with those objectives we each
know what we have to do to get those things done successfully. We
established our roles on paddling trips many years ago. At home we call
these departments. Mine, for example, is cooking and his is dishes.
We paddled the river at 8,000 cubic feet per second (CFS – think
8,000 basketballs passing by you each second – isn’t that a visual!) and
during the summer months the river is typically at about 20-22,000 CFS.
The features of the river at 8,000 CFS are more exposed because of the
lower flow. This allowed us to paddle the inflatable kayaks with greater
success, which essentially means less swimming. In addition to the two
inflatable kayaks, we had five oar boats and one paddle boat. I had
never paddled in water as big as this and it was thrilling – and at one
point frightening – after being eaten by a huge hole at Horn Creek
rapid. How happy was I to eventually pop-up downstream only to see the
big eyes of my betrothed saying, “I’m glad that’s over.”
The highlight of the trip in terms of the river for me was
successfully running Lava Falls, the largest rapid on the river, with
multiple features and must-do moves. Mark and I, having demonstrated
some degree of competence while sitting comfortably in our drysuits,
were honored on the one hand, but also quite petrified that we were
selected to be in the front of the paddleboat to run Lava. We had an
opportunity to scout before we ran and looking down from our vantage
point I was pretty sure I was going to either puke or cry. That thing
was big (even at 8,000 CFS)! I was not the only one with anxiety. The
entire day before and that morning we were all praying that we wouldn’t
have an out-of-boat experience. And it was important for the guides too,
as this was their last trip of the season and they too seemed eager to
end on a high note.
As it turned out no one swam Lava Falls – the river had mercy on us
this particular day. The next stop was Tequila Beach for a night of
celebrating with some liquid libation which our guides’ called a “bucket
of stupid” (need I say more).
I would be remiss if I did not tell you that the canyon is more than
just the river. The geology is mind-boggling and touching rocks that
are over a billion years old, well, that’s pretty impressive. The hiking
is incredible in the side canyons and although I am not much of a hiker
I was so glad that I did them because those tucked-away places that you
can’t see from the river were gorgeous.
Many people have gone before us on this amazing river. Some are
famous, like John Wesley Powell, and some infamous, like Bert Loepper,
and their stories and others were such an important part of our own
journey down the river. If you get a chance to visit this magical place,
you won’t regret the time it took or the money it cost – we sure don’t
and more specifically a paddling honeymoon is one that you will never
forget because who does that?
In the words of a paddlesports colleague, what a fitting trip as Mark and I start on our grand journey together.
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